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Take a wine bottle opener to France, and maybe a small cutting board, a sharp knife, and a backpack.   For surely your holiday will find you wanting to dine al fresco in amazing locations, enjoying the fare freshly bought at market.

Arles celebrates its big market day on Saturday, as does Apt, whose celebrants are certainly the likes of Peter Mayle.  Aix en Provence has markets daily, it seems, but at any village where you see commotion, have a look.

My favorite weekly event in Provence occurs on Sunday in a town of 15,000 souls called Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, a sort of Provençal Venice.   Its winding alleyways and ancient streets straddle the Sorgue River as it splits and cools with channels and gentle waterfalls.  Arriving from Cavaillon (to the south) or Avignon (to the west), a mossy waterwheel will greet you and just there start the market stalls cheek to jowl spread over the town.  This is not just a place to choose from an amazing selection of olives, spit roasted chickens, or an infinite variety of goat cheeses.  Parallel to all the frenetic activity, antique dealers exhibit gleaming armoires on the sidewalks.  Tables piled with vintage handwork and lace attract fanatical interest from Parisians down on weekend treasure hunts.   Magicians and musicians will pull a franc from your willing pocket, and candle makers beckon you to smell their waxy products.   Happily you purchase olive soap from Marseille, packets of Herbes de Provence, and soft tisane - a blend of five aromatic teas of compelling comfort for when winter winds howl back home.  Forgot your beach towel?  Crave a merry Provençal fabric?  Your choices are limitless.

It is here on Sunday morning that travelers stuff their backpacks with the makings of a Sunday lunch: a foucass, (the delectable flat twisted olive bread just baked in wood fire ovens), a pungent local melon, sun swollen ripe tomatoes, finely shaven bits of ham carved by the butcher, and a bottle of local Gigondas.  At one o’clock, when everything shuts down and sun weary shoppers skuttle off to siestas, hop into your tiny auto rental and putter 6 miles to Fontaine de Vaucluse.

This small hamlet nestles on the heel of the source of the Sorgue.  A fifteen minute walk past cafés lining the gentle trout stream and along a footpath will take you to the cascading waters that shoot from a cliff.   The chateau above is where Petrarch wrote his verses to Laura - his Avignon amour.   Unpack your picnic, perch yourself on a rock, dangle your dusty toes in the cool green river, and enjoy sunlight dappling through the tall thick plane trees.  You are in the middle of the perfect day in Provence.  Later, drive over to Gordes; that immaculate unreal hill fortress of a village.  Then, over the top, take the back roads through fragrant lavender fields to visit the Abbey de Senaque.  By glimmering sunset you will be back in your Provençal home ready to toast lingering nightfall with yet another bottle of Cotes de Ventoux.  Keep that wine bottle opener handy!

Reserve in Advance if Counting on it!

Aix-en-Provence

La Crepe Sautier
Le Bouchon Provencal
L’Aligot 6 Place des Cordeurs Recommended: Feuillete avec Roquefort
Auberge d’Aillane Rte. de Robole Les Milles Tel 4 42 24 24 49 Lunch only. to 3p
Special: Relais Ste. Victoire Beaurecueil Reserve: (0) 4 42 65 94 98 (Les Sarmants)
Don’t forget to linger over a drink at Les Deux Garcons on the Cours Mirabeau in Aix.

In the Luberon between Cavaillon and Apt

Goult

Le Torneau about 150 FRF menu with wine Place de l’Ancienne Mairie Tel 4 90 72 22 35
Auberge de la Bartavelle Tel 04 90 72 33 72 128 FRF menu

Coustellet

Maison Gouin Tel 04 90 76 90 18
Auberge de la Fiacre 04 90 72 26 31

St. Remy-Les Alpilles Area

St Remy-en-Provence

Cafe des Arts Jardin de Frederic
La Gousse d’Ail XA
Bistro des Alpilles

Maussane les Alpilles
(5 min from Les Baux)

Ou Ravi Provencale (exp)
Chez Gabriele (exp)
Le Fournil

More Restaurants

Wines of Provence

Chateau de Fonsalette, vibrant red
Domane Tempier Bandol, spicy red
Chateau Simone Palette, south of Aix,
firm white Chateauneuf du Pape
good spicy red Gigondas from Faraud red

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Flea Market

Aix en Provence T/Th/Sat: 8 am-noon, Place des Precheurs

Bring a pot of water to boiling.
Beat egg whites stiff.
Drop egg white by spoonful into boiling water, turn over, and remove & strain.
Do each one separately.
Place in dessert bowl, pour cool Creme Anglaise over the Isle.
Sprinkle with caramelized suger, be careful not to melt the egg white.

Prices are approximate:  each '$' represents $1,000

PETITE PROVENCE 2BR 2BA apartment in the village center of Lourmarin. Stylish and perfect for two couples or a honeymoon visit.

-$$

MAS DES LANTINS 4+ bedrooms sleeping 7-9 in a completely renovated and luxurious French farmhouse.  Exceptional setting above Apt.  Private heated lap pool.

$$$$

LA FLEURIE Mediaeval hill village of Saignon.  Romantic setting with 2 bedrooms (double bedroom/twin bedroom) both ensuite.

$+

VILLA AGATHE  St. Saturnin d’Apt                                Sleeps 6.  Huge fenced and gated property with all modern conveniences in a traditional 70's villa. Walk to busy convenient village. Great for children, small pets accepted.  Handy for frail guests.

$+

 LAVENDER HILL

4 stone cottages sharing a pool plus 1 stone cottage with private pool. 

Sleeping from 2 - 6 persons.  Luberon national park above Apt.

$+

MAISON MARIANNE - Goult

Beautiful village house in the centre of the chaming village of Goult in the Luberon.  

Tiny Roman bath type pool and courtyard.  Guest house. 

$+

CHEZ SUSANNE - Lacoste~Provence 

A cozy apartment in the village of Lacoste in the heart of the Luberon

2 bedrooms/ 2 bathrooms, terrace, private parking, shared pool, great views.  Walking distance to village.

$+  

MAISON ROSE - A village house with garden in the beautiful village of Goult 

in the Luberon. 3 Bedrooms 1 Bath + sep. WC. Excellent location with all amenities nearby

$+

Les Bartavelles 3 units in a renovated bastide. Pool.

Les Taillades/Luberon Great touring location. Whole property rented as one in high season.  First class decor. Shared Pool.

Maitre: 4BR/4BA  Bas: 3BR/2BA  Haut: 2BR/1BA

Chez La Rose  Ancient Village house in Goult.   2 bedrooms, 1.5 bathrooms. Good central location within village. -$.

Mirachar   2+ Bedrooms 2 Baths $
Cabrieres d'Avignon.  Villa at village edge/great location/fantastic views

Mas Rousset   3 Bedrooms 1 Bath  $$
Townhouse near Aix-en-Provence.  Golf/tennis/shared pool

Le Paradis Cache  3+ Bedrooms 2+ Baths  $$
Menerbes. Converted Bergerie with addition. Pool/views.

Goult  4 Bedrooms 3 Baths $$$+
Luberon/Provence. Pool/views/comfort/village location

Bastide Dali   8 Bedrooms 6 Baths $$$$$
Oppede/Luberon.  Pool/fireplace/game room/lovely views

This is only a small sample of what we offer.
Tell us your special needs and we'll help you find them!

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