| In late September Houses
for Hire staff decided to take a busman’s holiday: a self-drive cruise on a canal in
the south of France. Having booked everything way in advance, we arrived at the
charming little port of Le Somail on the Canal du Midi on a summery autumn day. By
4:00 pm we had stowed away our gear in the nooks provided for novice mariners. Neil,
half-head of Minervois Cruisers, took us out for a ten minute test run. The first
low slung arch bridge measured our seaworthiness. Having passed, we gunned the
engines (6 MPH top speed) and glided west toward Carcassonne’s medieval fortress, 56
miles away. We figured we could get there and back in one week. And we did, but it
wasn’t that simple! Our calculations hadn’t included the 27 locks, all
having lunchtime closing hours and early evening shutdowns. But once we consulted
our Guide de Navigation Fluviale voies navigables du MIDI, the French equivalent of
a flight plan, our progress went sans probleme. The
physical sensation of traveling through timeless tall trees lining the canal, over dappled
green water, sunlight flashing through a glass of red wine, offset the need for crew
discipline going through the locks. We dropped ropes, got slimy, hustled across
bridges to accommodate tying up on the opposite side, bashed a few Swiss boaters, all in
good fun and with dramatic concentration. Navigating the locks was adventurous at
first but became routine after the first few. Our middle aged team of four plus an
octogenarian grandpa managed splendidly.
But if you hate camping, getting wet, possibly falling into the
canal, drinking too much wine, wearing wrinkled clothing and hoisting damp rope up and
over a stone wall, then canal barging is not for you. Go back to the sample
properties on the Languedoc page:
Houses for Hire offers two villas with pools directly on the canal.
Here is some good news, and some bad. Handling the barge
was easy after the first hour or so. The French--on the canal and on shore--were
friendly. You can tie up anywhere you want. We never saw a fly or a
mosquito. We never smelled rank water on the canal, a UNESCO proclaimed World
Heritage Site, built in the 17th century. We never missed a winery. We never
rushed through a meal, whether on land, in a canal-side restaurant, or in our efficient
little kitchen. The two bathrooms and showers did a fine job of freshening us up for
the evening. Some might see as inadequate the tiny accommodations (two of the cabins
had bunk beds, the other a nice double) and the minuscule refrigerator. But much of
our time was spent outdoors on the ample top deck of the barge. And we had a picnic
cooler on board, a fortunate purchase bought earlier that morning in Narbonne. Ice
bottles purchased from the lockeepers kept our drinks cold.
The things we would do different? Stop more often.
Follow the rows of bikers who pedaled past us on the tow path. Perhaps venture out
into the countryside with our bikes. In other words, take it easy. That last
night we parked between locks, away from any other boats or any visible
civilization. We ate our home-cooked dinner under the silent canopy of huge plane
trees, with a Van Gogh sky full of stars whispering peacefully through the leaves.
We’d do that again.
There are sights to see along the Canal du Midi, including
Carcassonne, and near Columbiers, an old Roman ruin called Oppidum. From this
hilltop archeological site you and your mates can ponder the ancient, eerie wheel effect
in the field layout below.
On this easterly route, boaters can visit Beziers and then Sete,
right on the Mediterranean. Huge fresh oysters on the half shell are a specialty of
this area. For adventurous types with time to spare (there is a discount for
long-term renters) one can go all the way to Beaucaire and taxi to Avignon, or west to
Castets en Dorthe for access to Bordeaux. But don’t rush. The whole point
of a canal barge trip is to take it easy. |
| Houses for Hire prefers
Minervois Cruisers, chosen because they offer the traditional configuration of the
steel-hulled barge (a friend of ours calls the plastic hulled boats
"Tupperware"). Since Val and Neil, the owners of Minervois Cruisers, are
English speaking folk like you and I, the shake-down formalities are less stressful.
Their help is essential for getting off on the right keel. They’ll even lay in
supplies for your arrival, should you decide to send them your grocery list. And
best of all, we found the little village of Le Somail the perfect central location for
heading off into the sunset or sunrise, your choice. Narbonne is closeby should you
want to drop off your auto rental or arrive by train. Below
we provide descriptions of the various boats for hire. All are ready for a Saturday
afternoon pickup and a Saturday morning return. Naturally you are responsible for
the fuel fillup on finish. One bike is included and additional ones can be
hired. High season starts on July 25 and runs to August 22. Rates during this
period start at $1400 and go to $2100 for La Livinière, the largest barge. Low
season prices range from $750 to $1100. Daily rentals are possible with advance
booking. |
ST. MICHELE
Sleeps 4. Three cabins with one double bed and two single beds.
A superbly fitted out traditional steel narrowboat with tiller steering. Beautiful
pine interior. Spacious shower-toilet compartment. Well equipped galley.
Ample storage space. Central heating. Stereo radio-cassette player.
48 feet 6 inches by 6 feet 10 inches Tariff $750-$1350ST. JEAN Sleeps up to 4. Two cabins with two
doubles or one double and two single beds.
Traditionally built steel narrowboat with tiller steering. Comfortable, versatile
layout with lots of storage space. Space heating. Well designed galley.
Stereo radio-cassette player.
35 feet by 6 feet 10 inches Tariff $750-$1400
ST. MARCEL Sleeps 4-6. Three cabins
with two double beds and two single beds.
Traditionally built steel narrowboat with tiller steering. Comfortable open plan
layout. Ideal for two couples or a family. Large shower/toilet compartment.
Well designed galley. Space heating. Stereo radio-cassette.
43 feet by 6 feet 10 inches. Tariff $800-$1500
ST. MARGAUX Sleeps 4-6. Two cabins
with 2 double beds and two single beds.
Traditionally built steel hulled narrowboat with tiller steering. Comfortable open
layout with roomy galley area. Large shower compartment, separate WC. Fixed
sunshade over helm and afterdeck. Central heating. Stereo radio-cassette.
40 feet by 10 feet 6 inches. Tariff $900-$1600
LA CAUNETTE Sleeps 5-7. Two cabins
with two double and 3 single beds.
Comfortable steel cruiser built along traditional lines. Flying bridge with
alternative steering position in the saloon. Lots of sunbathing space. Sliding
sunroof over the saloon. Two toilets, two showers. Space heating. Stereo
radio-cassette. Table and stools for the sundeck.
36 feet 6 inches by 10 feet 6 inches. Tariff $1000-$1900
AQUARELLE Sleeps up to 6. Four
cabins with two double beds and two single beds.
Comfortable well equipped steel cruiser with dual steering positions. Wheel in
saloon and tiller on aft deck. Raised saloon/wheelhouse. Space heating.
Stereo radio-cassette. Table and stools provided for sundeck.
38 feet 6 inches by 11 feet 6 inches. Tariff $1100-$1800
LA LIVINIÈRE Sleeps
7-9. Four cabins with two double and five single beds.
Comfortable traditional style steel cruiser with flying bridge and alternative steering
position in saloon. Two toilets, two showers. Space heating. Stereo
radio-cassette. Table and stools for sundeck.
45 feet by 10 feet 6 inches. Tariff $1200-$2100 |
| Houses
for Hire requires a deposit of 50% by check, with the final payment due to us no later
than eight weeks prior to arrival at port. Cancellation fees apply and all cancellations
must be in writing to Houses for Hire. Bed linens, towels and duvets are included in the rental. A
security deposit in FRF 2500 is payable on pickup day. Two bicycles are included in the
barge hire and additional bicycles are 150 FRF weekly. Gas fillup is payable on the final
day. Free parking is available at the barge pickup area and covered parking is provided
for 150 FRF weekly.
If you plan to take young children on a
barge holiday, please be advised that French law mandates that parents are responsible for
the safety and welfare of their children at all times.
To minimize any possible loss of your
holiday moneys, travel insurance is advised and Houses for Hire is happy to offer TRAVEL
GUARD should you choose to take insurance. |
